What Makes Shillong a Food Destination Worth Planning Around
Most people come to Shillong for the hills, the weather, and the views. Fair enough. But the food in this city has a way of catching you off guard, and once it does, it stays with you longer than any photograph.
Shillong is the capital of Meghalaya, and the food here draws heavily from Khasi culinary traditions. The cuisine is built around rice, pork, local greens, fermented ingredients, and bold but uncomplicated seasoning. Mustard oil, black sesame, ginger, garlic, bay leaves, and fresh green chillies form the backbone of most dishes. There is very little cream, with very little butter, and practically no pretence. What you get is a clean and direct flavour.
For travellers who are used to rich North Indian gravies or elaborate South Indian preparations, Shillong's food scene is refreshingly different. For those who are ready to book Meghalaya tour packages to explore Shillong, knowing where and what to eat can turn a good trip into a great experience.
This guide covers the dishes you need to try, the neighbourhoods where you will find the best food, and practical tips to make the most of your meals in the city.
The Dishes You Cannot Leave Shillong Without Trying
Khasi cuisine is the foundation of Shillong's food identity. These are not fancy restaurant creations. Most of them are home-style dishes that have been passed down through generations of Khasi families. You will find them in small eateries, roadside stalls, and family-run joints across the city.
Jadoh (Rice Cooked with Pork)
Jadoh is arguably the most well-known Khasi dish, and for good reason. It is a preparation of red rice cooked together with pork, ginger, onions, turmeric, and bay leaves. The rice absorbs the flavour and fat from the meat during cooking, which gives it a rich, aromatic quality that plain rice simply cannot match. Some versions use chicken or fish instead of pork, but the classic version with pork remains the crowd favourite. Jadoh is typically served with tungtap, a fiery chutney made from dried fish, onion, and red and green chillies.
Doh Khleh (Pork Salad)
If you have never tried a cold meat salad, Doh Khleh is an excellent place to start. Steamed pork is chopped into small pieces and mixed with sliced onions, green chillies, and a squeeze of lime. It is served at room temperature, and the combination of smoky pork with sharp, tangy raw onion is surprisingly addictive. Think of it as Shillong's answer to a protein-rich, no-fuss starter.
Dohneiiong (Pork in Black Sesame Gravy)
This is one of the boldest dishes in the Khasi repertoire. Tender pork pieces are slow-cooked in a thick paste of roasted black sesame seeds, garlic, and ginger. The result is a dark, nutty curry with a depth of flavour that is genuinely hard to find anywhere else in India. It is rich, earthy, and pairs perfectly with plain steamed rice.
Tungrymbai (Fermented Soybean Paste)
Tungryumbai is a divisive dish, and that is exactly why you should try it. Fermented soybeans are cooked slowly with onions, garlic, ginger, and sometimes pork. The preparation is thick and savoury, with a strong, earthy aroma. In many Khasi households, the soybeans are still fermented the traditional way, packed into bamboo baskets and left near the fire for days. If you enjoy Japanese miso or Korean doenjang, tungrymbai will feel familiar yet distinctly different.
Putharo and Pumaloi (Steamed Rice Cakes)
Not everything in Shillong's food scene revolves around meat. Putharo is a thin, crepe-like rice cake made from powdered rice, while pumaloi is a softer, steamed version. Both are commonly eaten for breakfast or as snacks with tea, and they are a staple at the traditional ja cha (rice and tea) stores dotted around the city. These are simple, filling, and comforting, especially on a cold Shillong morning.
Where to Eat in Shillong: Neighbourhood by Neighbourhood
Shillong is a compact city, and most of its food action is concentrated in a few key areas. A reliable Shillong taxi or a willingness to walk uphill will get you to all of them.
Police Bazaar: The Heart of Shillong's Food Scene
Police Bazaar, locally called Khyndailad, is the commercial centre of Shillong and the default starting point for any food exploration. During the day, the area hums with shops, vendors selling seasonal fruits like strawberries, pineapples, and mulberries, and small eateries serving everything from Khasi staples to North Indian thalis. By evening, the energy shifts. Roadside grills fire up, and the smell of charcoal-roasted pork and freshly steamed momos fills the narrow lanes.
Key spots to note in Police Bazaar:
Trattoria is a small, no-frills joint widely considered one of the best places for authentic Khasi food in the city. The jadoh here is consistently good, and the place is popular with locals, which is always a reliable indicator. It tends to close early in the afternoon, so plan a lunch visit.
Red Rice offers a slightly more polished setting and serves a mix of Chinese and Khasi dishes. Try the doh khleh here if you want a mild introduction to Khasi flavours.
Delhi Mishthan Bhandar is the go-to spot for hot jalebis and Indian sweets. A surprisingly popular fixture in this Northeast Indian hill town.
Eee Cee has been around for decades, known for its bakery items, homemade noodles, and gingerbread cookies.
Laitumkhrah: Cafes, Grills, and Young Energy
A short distance from Police Bazaar, Laitumkhrah is where Shillong's younger crowd gathers. The neighbourhood is home to several cafes, bakeries, and small eateries that serve everything from espresso and brownies to pork skewers and Khasi thalis.
Dylan's Cafe is one of Shillong's most photographed spots, covered floor to ceiling in Bob Dylan memorabilia. The vibe is excellent for a lazy afternoon with coffee, though the food itself is secondary to the atmosphere.
Jadoh (the restaurant, named after the dish) is located in this area, opposite the Don Bosco Museum. It serves affordable, authentic Khasi food and is a favourite among students and locals on a budget.
Roadside grills in Laitumkhrah serve charcoal-grilled pork and chicken in the evenings. These small stalls are easy to spot and hard to resist.
Iewduh (Bara Bazaar): The Traditional Market Experience
Iewduh, meaning "the biggest bazaar" in Khasi, is the oldest and largest traditional market in the Khasi and Jaintia hills. It has been operating since 1874 and is run predominantly by women vendors. For food lovers, this is where you experience the raw, unfiltered side of Shillong's food culture.
Come here in the morning to find freshly made breakfast items like pukhlein (fried rice cakes with jaggery), pumaloi, and other traditional snacks. The market also has ja cha stores where workers and visitors eat simple plates of brown rice, boiled vegetables, and curried meat at very affordable prices. This is not polished dining. It is honest, community-driven food served the way it has been for generations.
If you are looking at Shillong tour packages that include local sightseeing and cultural experiences, a morning at Iewduh should be non-negotiable.
Beyond Khasi Cuisine: The Other Flavours of Shillong
Shillong's food identity is rooted in Khasi cooking, but the city is cosmopolitan enough to cater to a range of palates. North Indian food, including dal, roti, paneer dishes, and tandoori preparations, is widely available. City Hut Family Dhaba on Oakland Road is a reliable choice for Indian and Chinese options, with a family-friendly setup and generous portions.
Chinese food, or rather the Indo-Chinese adaptation of it, is extremely popular. Chowmein and momos are practically available everywhere. Pork and chicken momos, in particular, are a Shillong speciality, served steaming hot with spicy dipping sauces.
For those who prefer vegetarian food, options are more limited but not absent. South Indian restaurants like Namma Madras Cafe in Police Bazaar serve dosas and filter coffee. Tungryumbai, when prepared without pork, is a hearty vegetarian dish. The various bakeries across Laitumkhrah and Police Bazaar offer pastries, cakes, and snacks that cater to all dietary preferences.
Practical Tips for Eating in Shillong
Planning your meals around a few ground rules will make the experience smoother, especially if this is your first trip to Northeast India.
Carry cash. Many of the best eateries and street stalls in Shillong are small operations that do not accept cards or digital payments. Keep small denominations handy.
Eat early. Shillong operates on an earlier schedule than most Indian cities. Many local eateries close by 7:30 or 8:00 PM. Dinner by 7:00 PM is a safe bet if you are targeting authentic Khasi joints.
Try the seasonal fruits. Depending on when you visit, you will find strawberries, pineapples, oranges, plums, and mulberries sold fresh at Police Bazaar and Iewduh. They are affordable, fresh, and worth buying.
Spice levels can be unpredictable. Khasi food ranges from mild to fiery. Dishes made with bhut jolokia (ghost pepper) or local chilli chutneys can be intensely hot. If you have a low spice tolerance, ask before ordering.
Respect local eating customs. Portions in local eateries tend to be smaller because the Khasi eating culture involves multiple meals throughout the day. If you want more, simply order a second plate.
Getting around for food. A Shillong taxi is the easiest way to hop between Police Bazaar, Laitumkhrah, and Iewduh. All three areas are within a few kilometres of each other, but the hilly terrain makes walking between them tiring for some travellers.
The Best Time to Visit Shillong for Food
October to March is the most comfortable period to visit Shillong, with cool and pleasant weather that makes walking through markets and sitting at outdoor stalls genuinely enjoyable. This is also the peak tourist season, so expect crowds at popular eateries.
The monsoon months from June to September bring heavy rain but also a unique charm. Many seasonal ingredients, including local greens and mushrooms, are at their freshest during this period. If you do not mind getting a little wet, a monsoon food trip through Shillong has its own rewards.
Yes Tourism, with its strong expertise in Northeast India travel and local destination knowledge, designs Meghalaya tour packages that factor in seasonal highlights. Their Guwahati office on R.G. Baruah Road, Chandmari, provides on-ground support for travellers heading to Shillong and other parts of Meghalaya, making logistics like transport, accommodation, and itinerary planning considerably easier.
Pair Your Food Trail with These Nearby Experiences
A food trip to Shillong pairs well with short excursions to nearby destinations that are part of most Meghalaya itineraries.
Cherrapunji (about two hours from Shillong) offers its own local food experiences at smaller resorts and eateries, alongside its famous living root bridges and waterfalls.
Mawlynnong, known as one of the cleanest villages in Asia, gives you a taste of village-level Khasi hospitality and home-cooked meals.
Dawki and Shnongpdeng offer riverside camping where meals are often prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
Yes Tourism organises multi-day packages that combine Shillong with these destinations, so you do not have to plan each destination separately.
Final Word
Shillong does not shout about its food. There are no Michelin guides for this city, no celebrity chef endorsements. What it offers instead is something more valuable: food that is deeply tied to its land, its people, and its seasons. From the smoky jadoh at a tiny Police Bazaar stall to the earthy tungrymbai at a family-run joint in Laitumkhrah, every meal here tells you something about the Khasi way of life. Plan your trip with food as a priority, and Shillong will reward you in ways that go well beyond the plate.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most famous food in Shillong?
Jadoh is widely considered the most famous dish in Shillong. It is a traditional Khasi preparation of red rice cooked together with pork, ginger, onions, and turmeric. Most Khasi restaurants and local eateries in Shillong serve jadoh as a staple item, often accompanied by tungtap chutney made from dried fish and chillies.
Is vegetarian food available in Shillong?
Yes, vegetarian food is available in Shillong, though the options are more limited than in cities on the mainland. Police Bazaar has South Indian restaurants and North Indian eateries that serve vegetarian thalis, dosas, and paneer dishes. For Khasi vegetarian options, tungrymbai (fermented soybean paste prepared without meat) and steamed rice cakes like pumaloi are good choices.
Where can I find the best street food in Shillong?
Police Bazaar and Iewduh (Bara Bazaar) are the two best areas for street food in Shillong. Police Bazaar comes alive in the evenings with stalls selling momos, grilled pork, jhalmuri, and chaat. Iewduh is better for morning visits, with traditional Khasi breakfast items and ja cha stores serving affordarice-and-curryurry plates.
How do I get around Shillong to try different food areas?
A Shillong taxi is the most convenient way to move between food neighbourhoods like Police Bazaar, Laitumkhrah, and Iewduh. The distances are short, but the hilly terrain can make walking tiring. Local shared taxis and auto-rickshaws are also available for shorter trips within the city.
What is the best time to visit Shillong for food and travel?
October to March is ideal for visiting Shillong, with pleasant weather that makes exploring markets and outdoor eateries comfortable. During this period, seasonal fruits like strawberries and oranges are widely available. Tour packages to Shillong during this window typically include local sightseeing, market visits, and cultural experiences that complement a food-focused trip.
Is Shillong food very spicy?
Khasi cuisine ranges from mild to very spicy. Dishes like jadoh and pumaloi are generally mild, while chutneys made with bhut jolokia (ghost pepper) or tungtap can be intensely hot. Most eateries will let you request a milder version if you ask.