The Woman Who Left a Stable Job to Ride 73,000 Kilometres
Most people think about quitting their jobs. Very few actually do it. Even fewer do it to ride a motorcycle across an entire country. Nirmali Nath, born in Tezpur and based in Guwahati, did exactly that. After working for 11 years at the Titan company, she saved enough money, bought a Royal Enfield Classic 350, and set off on a journey that would eventually cover over 73,000 kilometres across India, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, and Thailand.
What makes her story worth telling is not just the distance. It is the fact that she became one of the first women from Guwahati to undertake a solo bike ride from Assam to Leh-Ladakh. It is the fact that after a devastating ankle fracture left her bedridden for eight months, she got back on her bike and learned to shift gears with her toes because her ankle never fully recovered, and it is the fact that every kilometre she rides carries a message about women's empowerment and the untapped potential of northeast India as a travel destination.
Her story is also, in many ways, a story about Assam itself. A state that produces adventurous, resilient travelers. A state full of landscapes that most of India has never seen. And a state that deserves far more attention from the travel community than it currently gets.
From Tezpur to Leh: How It All Started
In July 2016, Nirmali Nath and fellow rider Dharitri Terangpi set off from Guwahati on their Royal Enfield Classic 350s, headed for Leh-Ladakh. The ride covered approximately 7,000 kilometres through eight Indian states over roughly 20 days. They called their riding group "Niradhar," a name formed from the initials of its members, which translates to "determination" in Assamese.
The ride was part of the Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey 2016, and it made national headlines. At the time, women from Assam riding motorcycles across the country was practically unheard of. The trip was not smooth. Nirmali was hit by a truck from behind while crossing West Bengal during that very first ride. She had no formal training in motorcycle mechanics and had to learn repairs on the go. But she completed the journey, and it changed the trajectory of her life.
After the Leh ride, she received a job offer from a well-known motorcycle company. She took it. But a few months in, while on an official tour returning from Dimapur in Nagaland to Nagaon in Assam, the ABS on her bike failed. A cyclist came abruptly into her path, and the resulting crash fractured her ankle badly. She was operated on in Vadodara, Gujarat, and doctors advised her to stay off a motorcycle for at least two years.
She was back on the road in eight months.
Riding with a Fractured Ankle and Zero Regrets
The ankle never healed completely. To this day, Nirmali Nath cannot move her ankle. She shifts gears on her motorcycle using her toes. That single detail tells you more about her character than any motivational quote could.
After recovering, she did not slow down. She went on to become the only lady rider to cover remote locations in Arunachal Pradesh, like Koloriang, Anini, Tuting, and Geling on a motorcycle. These are not tourist-friendly roads. Many of them are barely roads at all, especially during the monsoons. She scaled high-altitude terrains in conditions that would make most seasoned riders think twice.
One of her most significant rides was a 90-day journey along the Indian coastal route, riding from Guwahati to Gujarat via South India. She has also upgraded to a Royal Enfield Himalayan as her second motorcycle, though the Classic 350 remains close to her heart.
In 2019, she was selected to lead the baton for the Women Riders World Relay (WRWR) through northeast India. The WRWR was a year-long, worldwide motorbike relay that started in Scotland and covered over 80 countries. Nirmali took over from other riders in Siliguri and supervised the relay through Guwahati before handing it off at Dawki on the India-Bangladesh border in Meghalaya. She was accompanied on this leg by a rider from Belgium, making it a truly international collaboration.
The Seven Sisters Ride: 7 States, 7 Days, 2,500 Kilometres
In April 2021, Nirmali Nath teamed up with Onen Nenty from Nagaland and Rosalynn Lushai from Mizoram for the "Seven Sisters Ride." The three women, who had only known each other through social media, rode through all seven northeastern states in just seven days, covering roughly 2,500 kilometres at an average of 300 to 400 kilometres per day.
The route started from Guwahati and passed through Shillong, Silchar, Agartala, Aizawl, Imphal, Dimapur, Tezpur, and Itanagar before ending at Kaziranga National Park. The theme was "Breaking Stereotypes and Redefining North East," and the ride aimed to showcase the region as a safe, welcoming, and culturally rich travel destination.
What stood out to the riders was the warmth of the locals. Villages along the route offered them water, fruit, food, and shelter. Nirmali later said that the hospitality gave her goosebumps. The roads varied wildly from smooth highways to stretches with no proper road at all, but the landscapes and human connections made every rough patch worthwhile.
The trio was formally received in Itanagar by the Arunachal Pradesh Tour Operators Association (APTOA) and felicitated for their contribution to northeast tourism. Their ride proved a simple but powerful point: three women on motorcycles can travel safely across seven states in a week, and the northeast is ready for travelers who are willing to look beyond the usual routes.
For travelers inspired by this kind of northeast exploration, Yes Tourism offers well-structured Arunachal Pradesh tour packages and Meghalaya tour packages that cover many of the same regions Nirmali rode through.
What Nirmali Nath's Story Tells Us About Assam
Nirmali's journey started in Assam, and it keeps coming back to Assam. That is not a coincidence. The state is a natural launchpad for some of the most scenic road trips and adventures in India, yet it often gets overlooked in mainstream travel conversations.
Assam sits at the heart of northeast India. It is the gateway state for travelers heading to Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, and beyond. Guwahati, with its well-connected airport and railway station, is where the vast majority of northeast trips begin. But treating Assam as just a transit point is a mistake. The state has a depth of culture, wildlife, and landscapes that rival any major travel destination in the country.
Here are some of the places to visit in Assam that deserve a spot on your itinerary:
Kaziranga National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the largest population of the Indian one-horned rhinoceros in the world. Jeep and elephant safaris are available across four zones. The park is usually open from November to April.
Majuli: Recognized as one of the largest river islands in the world, Majuli sits on the Brahmaputra River and is home to centuries-old Vaishnavite monasteries called Satras. The island offers a deeply cultural travel experience.
Kamakhya Temple, Guwahati: One of the most important Shakti Peethas in India, perched on Nilachal Hill overlooking the Brahmaputra. It draws pilgrims and curious travelers year-round.
Tezpur: Nirmali's hometown and a historically rich city known for its ancient ruins, tea gardens, and proximity to the foothills of Arunachal Pradesh. The Agnigarh hillock and Mahabhairav Temple are key local attractions.
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary: Located about an hour from Guwahati, Pobitora has one of the highest densities of Indian rhinoceroses in the world. It is a great option for travelers with limited time who still want a wildlife experience.
Sivasagar: The former capital of the Ahom kingdom, Sivasagar is home to the Rang Ghar (often called Asia's oldest amphitheatre) and the massive Talatal Ghar, a palace with underground tunnels.
Manas National Park: Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Manas is a Project Tiger reserve and also home to endangered species like the pygmy hog and golden langur.
These are not secondary or backup destinations. These are places with global significance, and they form the backbone of what makes Assam tour packages genuinely worth exploring.
Why Assam is the Starting Point for Every Northeast Adventure
If you are planning a trip to the northeast, Assam is where your journey begins, both literally and logistically. Guwahati's Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport is the primary air gateway for Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, and most of the region.
From Guwahati, Shillong is about three hours by road. Cherrapunji is roughly five hours. Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh takes two days through some of the most spectacular mountain roads in India. Kaziranga is about four to five hours east of Guwahati.
This connectivity is exactly what makes Assam a strong candidate for multi-destination northeast itineraries. Nirmali Nath's own rides prove that the roads connecting Assam to its neighboring states are not just functional but genuinely scenic. The Meghalaya Emerald Trails package, for example, is designed for travelers coming through Guwahati who want a structured Meghalaya experience without the logistical headaches.
Yes Tourism, with 15 years of expertise in northeast India travel, specializes in building itineraries that combine multiple states into a single, well-planned trip. Their range of northeast packages, from the Shillong and Cherrapunji Tour to the Himalayan Harmony itinerary, uses Assam as the natural starting point and builds outward from there.
What Solo Travelers and Women Riders Can Learn from Nirmali
Nirmali Nath's story is not just about bike riding. It is a practical blueprint for anyone, especially women, who want to travel independently in India's northeast. Here are the key takeaways:
The northeast is safer than most people assume. Nirmali and her co-riders consistently reported warm hospitality and low safety concerns across all seven northeastern states. The region's tribal communities are known for their welcoming nature.
Planning matters, but so does flexibility. Road conditions in the northeast can change quickly due to weather, especially during the monsoon. Nirmali's rides succeeded because she was prepared to adapt.
You do not need to be an expert to start. By her own admission, Nirmali knew nothing about motorcycle maintenance when she began. She learned on the road. The same applies to travel planning: start with what you know and build from there.
A good support system makes a difference. Nirmali rode solo and with groups, and both approaches worked because she planned ahead for stays, routes, and emergency contacts. This is exactly the kind of support a reliable tour operator provides.
For travelers who want the thrill of northeast exploration with the safety and convenience of expert planning, browsing through the options at Yes Tourism's Meghalaya packages or Arunachal Pradesh tours is a practical starting point.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. Who is Nirmali Nath, and why is she known as the Royal Enfield Girl from Assam?
Nirmali Nath is a motorcycle traveler from Tezpur, Assam, who gained recognition as one of the first women from Guwahati to ride a Royal Enfield from Assam to Leh-Ladakh in 2016. She has since covered over 73,000 kilometres across India, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, and Thailand, earning her the title "Royal Enfield Girl from Assam." She rides to promote women's empowerment and northeast India tourism.
Q2. What are the best places to visit in Assam for first-time travelers?
The top places to visit in Assam include Kaziranga National Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for the Indian one-horned rhinoceros), Majuli (one of the largest river islands in the world), Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati, Sivasagar (the former Ahom capital with historic monuments), Tezpur (ancient ruins and tea gardens), Manas National Park, and Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary.
Q3. Is Assam safe for solo female travelers?
Yes. Assam is generally considered safe for solo female travelers. The state has a welcoming culture, and urban areas like Guwahati have well-developed tourism infrastructure. Standard precautions apply: avoid isolated areas at night, use verified transport, and carry valid identification. Nirmali Nath and other women riders have consistently highlighted the warmth and safety they experienced while traveling across the northeast.
Q4. What is the best time to visit Assam?
The ideal time to visit Assam is between October and April. Winter months (November to February) are particularly pleasant, with cool, dry weather that is ideal for wildlife safaris in Kaziranga and Manas. The monsoon season (June to September) brings heavy rainfall and flooding in some areas, making travel difficult in certain parts of the state.
Q5. How do I plan a multi-state northeast India trip starting from Assam?
Guwahati, Assam, is the primary gateway for travel in northeast India. From Guwahati, you can reach Shillong (Meghalaya) in about three hours, Kaziranga in four to five hours, and Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh) in two days. Tour operators like Yes Tourism offer curated northeast packages that use Guwahati as the starting point and combine destinations across Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, and Sikkim into a single itinerary.
Q6. Are there Assam tour packages available through Yes Tourism?
Yes Tourism does not currently list a standalone Assam tour package on their website. However, their northeast India packages, including Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh tours, use Guwahati (Assam) as the arrival city and can be customized to include Assam-specific destinations like Kaziranga, Majuli, or Tezpur. Contact their team directly to discuss a tailored plan.
Q7. What motorcycle did Nirmali Nath ride for her major trips?
Nirmali Nath started her riding journey on a Royal Enfield Classic 350, which she used for her iconic Guwahati-to-Leh ride in 2016. She later upgraded to a Royal Enfield Himalayan as her second motorcycle, which she has used for subsequent long-distance tours across India and neighboring countries.